Finally in the mid 1790s riding habit series we have the habit jacket.
The jacket has a wrap front that fastens with pins rather than the more typical buttons. In the plate, the artist has taken the time to clearly draw the pins and stress lines on the fabric, and this might be my favorite detail in the entire image. Not only does it add a nice level of realism to the plate, but it means I can avoid buttonholes – my sewing nemesis!
The jacket is one layer of wool, with the body of the jacket lined in linen and the sleeves in a lightweight silk. The collar and lapels are interlined in just one extra layer of linen, padstitched, and then edgestitched to a wool facing. I choose not to use a stiffer interlining in the collar and lapels since they appear rather floppy in the image.
The peplum is cut in one with the center back bodice pieces, but separately for the sides. Its pleated to the bottom of the bodice and a gusset is added to the center back using a mantua makers seam. The peplum on the little sleeveless bodice from
An Agreeable Tyrant is patterned in a very similar manner. I experimented with different styles and shapes for the jacket tails, and this gave the best spring away from the back. I also left the peplum unlined which helped keep the tails perky.
Posted:
10/27/2019 10:46:57 AM by
Aubry | with
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