Moving on to the petticoat and stomacher...
The petticoat is made from two widths of taffeta. The side seams are stitched by machine with the top 11 inches left open for pocket slits. The petticoat is leveled over the pocket hoops and petticoats at the waist. For my measurements, I turned down the top of the fabric four inches in the middle of the panel and angled it out to the side seams. The total length of the panels is 45 inches. I added the ruffles and a narrow hem before pleating the petticoat to a fabric waistband with twill tape ties. The petticoat is trimmed with an 11 inch knee-high ruffle, a wavy piece of ruching above that, and a 3 inch ruffle at the hem.
The inside of the petticoat after pleating.
Adding the ruffle before pleating the petticoat.
The finished petticoat.
For the stomacher, I used the pattern from my aqua francaise as a guide, extending the sides because this dress has a wider front opening. The stomacher is one layer of linen cut without any seam allowances and one layer of silk taffeta. The seam allowance of the taffeta is folded over the linen and stitched down with a running stitch. Its trimmed with three wavy rows of pinked taffeta gathered using whipgathers and tacked down with a running stitch.
The untrimmed stomacher, front and back.
The finished stomacher.
The final installment is next - gown trimmings and the finished dress!
Posted: 1/31/2012 7:00:02 PM
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